What makes a CLASSIC a CLASSIC?

Each year I highlight a special tavern that evokes memories and feelings of a different time. These operating business still performing the role for which they were initially intended: To serve as community meeting places for hard working men (and in modern America, women). To be considered as a “Classic Tavern,” the establishment must meet the following criteria:

Curb Appeal – Genesee Beer neon sign or signage from a defuncted brewery in window…usually the first sign of great things to come.  

Location – Neighborhood setting. Located on corner of block. No parking lot…time to show off ones parallel parking skills.

Name –Includes the bar owner’s first or last name….Ulrich’s, Bramer's, Gadowski’s, Arty’s, Frank’s, Wolski's. Sometimes includes the tavern’s location: Edge of Town, Marilla Grill, Shannon Bridge.  Better yet… when it includes both.. Dick’s Eastside Inn.

Atmosphere – How’s the “craic?” This is an Irish term used to describe the atmosphere of a good pub -- the food, drink, music and conversation. In a classic Buffalo tavern you might hear conversation about the unions, the Holy Name bowling team or energetic debates about the Sabres and Bills.

Layout – Bar and men’s room upfront, tables for dinning and women's room in back. Sometimes the men's & ladies rooms are near a phone booth built into the wall near the kitchen. Separate door on side of building for access to restaurant portion. Small square tables...used for cards or a place for the kids to sit and drink pop. 

“The Book” – A registry of daily patrons. Still a common practice in many “classic” Buffalo bars. Each day the “regulars” sign “the book” and throw a dollar in the monthly pool. At the end of the month a name is chosen to win a sizable jackpot which generally is spent at the establish purchasing countless rounds for the bar. 

Décor – Signs from defunct breweries: Simon Pure, Iroquois, Manru, Pabst, Blatz, etc. Pictures of patrons and or old politicians. A “classic” tavern will have missed the modernization movement of the 60’s & 70’s. An authentic wooden “bar back” is a must. These finely crafted edifices are the single most important piece of the environment. Listen to the sound of the wooden doors and steel latches being shut. If not an “ice box” style cooler… look for a classic Bevador refrigerator (shaped like a beer bottle) near the bar (Swannie House, Bflo).

Entertainment – shuffle-bowling machine, jukebox featuring songs from our parent’s generation, old men at the bar with plenty of colorful stories. A good Irish Pub will have live music. 

Food – small grill behind bar or tiny kitchen tucked off to the side. Good supply of chips and pretzels on display behind bar. Does the bar serve fish on Friday and beef on weck during the week?

Beverages – Look for a fully stocked bar of inexpensive regional brews: Genesee, Utica Club and Miller High Life. If Irish….a well used Guinness tap.

Glassware – Draft beer served in short 4 ½ inch glasses. If Irish...uses of Imperial Pint glasses.

Address: 34 South Crossman Street, Buffalo  
 

Food Service: Traditional German Dishes

Hours: Open 7 days a week, 12Noon till close

Owner: Margarete Scharf and son Jerry

Daren’s Tavern, located at 514 Howard Street at Metcalf, represents one of the best-preserved, classic taverns in Buffalo. According to City records, the building was built in 1900 as a tavern sponsored by the Magnus Beck Brewing Company and has served as a tavern/restaurant ever since (107 years). Don’t let its “museum” quality interior fool you; Daren’s is a workin’ man’s joint, in a historic workin’ man’s neighborhood. 

Address: 514 Howard Street, Buffalo  
 

Food Service: Traditional tavern lunches. Chili, Beef-on-Weck, Burgers, etc

Hours: Open 7 days a week, 12Noon till close

Owner: Renata

Located at the Corner of Bailey Avenue and Pullman Street in Buffalo. Pristach is one of the best Prohibition era taverns still in operation in the region. The establishment has been in operation at the address by the same family since 1937. One television, a jukebox with polka music, Rolling Rock splits for $1 and one of the best bar and back bars left in use. It’s located in a part of the history surrounded by industrial history. Don’t miss this tavern as it is one of the last of its era.

Address: 1634 Bailey Ave, Buffalo (Near Broadway)

Food Service: Not since the Regan Administration

Hours: Open 7 days a week, 12Noon till close

Owner: Eddie Pristach

East Avenue Tavern ranks high in all “classic tavern” criteria including fully restored art deco back bar, the working man’s Genesee Beer on tap, men’s room up front, dinning area (for Friday Fish) in the rear. Located on Oliver Street in North Tonawanda, New York.  

Address: 881 Oliver Street, North Tonawanda, New York

Food Service: Fish Frys Friday only

Hours: Open 7 days a week, 8AM till close

Owner: Leonard Wudyka

JONFRE'S TAVERN, Niagara Street, Niagara Falls - Winner of the 2004 "Classic Tavern Award" for the most authentic gin mill in Buffalo-Niagara. Ranks high in all "classic tavern" categories: location, curb appeal, decor, layout... Jonfre's is a living museum of popular culture.

Address: Niagara Street, Niagara Falls, New York

Food Service: Lunches and Fish Frys

Hours: Open 7 days a week, 9AM till Close

GENE McCARTHY'S is nestled among industrial buildings, multi-family homes and a network of railroad tracks in Buffalo's First Ward. McCarthy's is still a favorite of grain workers (General Mills), fire fighters, police and politicians. Watch-out of the "live" train tracks only feet away from the front door! This pub was one of the first to set the standards of "Classic Taverns."

Address: 73 Hamburg Street, Buffalo, New York

Food Service: Daily from 11 to 1:30 p.m.; dinner is served Friday from 4 to 7 p.m.

Hours: Open 7 days a week, 8AM till close

Owner: Gerhardt Yaskow (Gene McCarthy retired in Spring 2006)